Inspecting a card - the basics

 Alteration Overview

 Card Soaking

 Detecting bleached cards

 Detecting trimmed cards

 Card sanding

 Detecting a rebacked card

 Aging and toning

 Detecting recolored cards

Detecting rebuilt corners

 Reglossed cards

 Errors and oddities

 Other alterations

Here are some other type of alterations and doctoring results that don't really fall into any specific category:

Hiding in plain sight alteration and how to identify filled pinholes:

As many are aware a pinhole, regardless of the card condition, will usually be given a grade of 1 or considered to be in poor condition. In the card below a tack was placed through the card and twisted, opening up a two nice sized holes.

Filler was used as well as several other techniques and steps to both fill the holes and disguise their existence. Because the holes were filled in a colored area, a heavy scuff was created to hide the filler. The alteration is now hiding behind another alteration. The back is completely undetectable...really. Many may think the holes are clearly visible...but the indentations are not them.

A scuff alteration made to cover filled pinholes. A top grader from an authentication company stated he has never seen this done to a card and is impressed by the results.

When looking for a filled hole use a halogen light as well as a fluorescent black-light (50+ watts) to pick up on any starches or bonding compounds used in the mix. Also look for light that may shine through the now thinned cardstock area.

When a hole is filled is not uncommon to have one side look great and the other needing work. It’s very difficult to make both sides look perfect. Don’t always think that worn, scuffed or other flaws are there by accident. It’s always an area of concern.

This card was shown to two graders, one "very well known." The quality of work was such that the alteration within the alteration was not detectable and it also remained opaque. As told...it would have received a grade of 2 or 3. Not much but enough to raise the value considerably if this was an ultra high-end card.

Slabs and Flips:

Card collectors should not only be careful when purchasing cards but should be aware that graded card holders and flips (identifying paper inserts) from different authentication companies can also be doctored.

Inspect card holder for a frosted type look around the outside edges. When a card holder is broken in half (referred to as cracked) to have the card removed, the normal clear edges will become frosted. This is a built-in system used by grading companies to show that the holder has been compromised. If you suspect the slab is fake or not from represented company check for identifiers. Most grading companies also have their logo engraved or embossed, if ever so small, on the plastic slab...check the bottom corners of the holder as shown below.

If a holder is suspected of being doctored, look carefully at the holder seams for any signs of frosting. At various spots along the edge there will be weld points. These are small sections where a male end on one side fits into the female end of the other. It may be normal to have some frosting around them. The points should be inspected closely for any inconsistent color or to make sure the the frosted color does not run vertically or laterally. Check the corners for cracks in the plastic and signs that there may have been a tool inserted (pry area) to forcefully break the seal.

Here is what a typical card holder that has been opened or cracked should look like. The frosted white color on the left is compared to the relatively clear looking bottom section. Note the normal round weld point on the bottom left side.

Although very rarely, if ever seen, the paper insert that identifies the grade and card information (known as the "flip") can also be altered. If seen, it will more than likely be in a holder that has been cracked and resealed. With a halogen light look at the flip at various angles. Most flips have a slight gloss to the paper. An altered flip paper may be dull, any potential untouched spots will still retain the original gloss. Most importantly check the fonts and numbers and compare them to a real flip. It is difficult, at best, to duplicate every letter exactly. Don't be too concerned with print spacing, angles or edge placement, as these are often inconsistent. They should although, line up to the left and on the right as shown.

Here are some examples of forged flips that were being sold with a card in a cracked holder. The key indicator on these was that the backs were not originals....just plain blue paper. A very tough to detect but subtle characteristic is that each group has the same bar code as seen in the alignment. This would suggest that the flips were doctored on a computer from scans and printed.

			These are graded card holders from two different companies that have been cracked in half and the cards removed. Each has had the tamper-evident frosting buffed out leaving the unsealed halves looking close to normal. The holder to the right has a blank T206 card and a blank flip from another company placed inside.

		These particular flips above have had various parts of the ink removed, showing that any combination of flip doctoring is possible. As with other alterations these are not digitally made or enhanced.
		A mixed variety of altered vintage blank cards, flips and holders.